Goop Ben 10 Wiki Fandom

Goop | Ben 10 Wiki | Fandom

Goop | Ben 10 Wiki | Fandom I want to harden some small things with a lot of surface detail. probably made from w2. can you guess what i'm thinking of? i guess that avoiding decarb would be greated challenge to keeping the surface detail hard? i have some of that grey goop you paint on before austenising to protect against. Are you using flux? is the smoke/goop from the mig welder getting in between the layers? finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld? if you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact. gentle taps until you know it's solid.

Awesome Goop | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | Fandom

Awesome Goop | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | Fandom Just an aside tung oil is in the same boat. most of what is available is mixed with blo and has drying agents. you can still get raw tung, you just need to search it out. so yeah, depends on what you are doing. if i'm mixing up some handle goop for modern style knives i use blo. if i am trying to keep a degree of authenticity, i might use the raw product. You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work. if you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or o 1. It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine). i happened to already have those ingredients. it has quite a potent smell it didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax. making sheaths is fun. One of the whackier quenches i've used (i'm sorry, who can resist trying different quenching media?!) is based on wayne goddards goop. i used one part lard, one part paraffin and one part atf.

Goop (Universe-7781) | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | Fandom

Goop (Universe-7781) | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | Fandom It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax/boiled lineseed oil/gum turpentine). i happened to already have those ingredients. it has quite a potent smell it didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax. making sheaths is fun. One of the whackier quenches i've used (i'm sorry, who can resist trying different quenching media?!) is based on wayne goddards goop. i used one part lard, one part paraffin and one part atf. He talks about "bluing salts" at some point, perhaps in another video i don't remember. anyone able to explain the ingredients of this "goop"? sincerely, alveprins. If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off. apparently they had glue like that in the bronze age. it can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart. the japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira). the japanese call it nikawa. I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of goddard's goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax. sets up solid at room temperature, and i usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades. The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and /or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes. i'll get a better edge quench without it. i will re do this piece, normalizing it 3x, and i will try the clay again in water. i'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined.

Image - Goop Fest.png | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | FANDOM Powered By Wikia

Image - Goop Fest.png | Ben 10 Fan Fiction Wiki | FANDOM Powered By Wikia He talks about "bluing salts" at some point, perhaps in another video i don't remember. anyone able to explain the ingredients of this "goop"? sincerely, alveprins. If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off. apparently they had glue like that in the bronze age. it can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart. the japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira). the japanese call it nikawa. I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of goddard's goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax. sets up solid at room temperature, and i usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades. The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and /or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes. i'll get a better edge quench without it. i will re do this piece, normalizing it 3x, and i will try the clay again in water. i'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined.

GOOP | Wiki Ben 10 Todos | Fandom

GOOP | Wiki Ben 10 Todos | Fandom I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of goddard's goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax. sets up solid at room temperature, and i usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades. The goop helped me from spilling transmission fluid and /or other oils all over the place but that's as far as it goes. i'll get a better edge quench without it. i will re do this piece, normalizing it 3x, and i will try the clay again in water. i'll move through the sanding process with progressive grits as outlined.

Ben 10 use Goop to avoid toxic fans